9 October 2022

Style tip by Fashion.at publisher Karin Sawetz: Making a comfortable winter lounge jacket from a new fabric or an old warm blanket; about the development of the basic cut with manufacturing tips.

Yesterday, I drew a new pattern for a lounge jacket. It was a birthday present for a family member, body height around 185 cm; men's size medium, women large. The basic unisex cut of the wide jacket was adjusted further as the used material was a knitted fabric with higher elasticity. The more elasticity the material allows, the narrower the original pattern can be readjusted during the 2nd fitting.

The pattern was developed in the basic form from measures of the width of the front and back part, sleeve, the height of the hood and the depth of the armhole of a favorite, often worn hoodie. The design incorporates elements of a sports jacket and a single breasted cardigan. The biggest challenge was to craft the jacket with as few seams as possible. The pattern on view on this page is without side seams or back seam. Four centimeters are measured from the middle for the overlap of the front closure with buttons. The inner seams at the shoulders and the neckhole, armholes, seams of the sleeves are trimmed with bias tape. The upper end of the patch pockets and all hems, the front opening and the hoodie (including the middle seam) are edged with a flat knit cordel. The cordel is also used for the bound buttonholes.

Images, from above: The picture shows me at the last fitting. 180 cm knit fabric (150cm wide) were used for the jacket. Below: I tested if the size of a common blanket can be in general enough for the basic pattern which was drawn including seam allowance and room for adjustments; the lengths (jacket, sleeve) have to be adjusted individually and after the available material. The raw pattern of the lounge jacket on view at the image was refined later during the fittings.