8 August 2021

Fashion.at's Karin Sawetz about knots in fashion: From the making of nautical knots to the use of knots in contemporary fashion

The video on this page shows a so-called clove hitch, in German also called 'Mastwurf' which denotes the usage of the knot in the meaning of fixing a boat by 'throwing' (Wurf) a rope with a special knot around a mast. But the following text won't be about boating. An introduction into the topic boating and the geography of Austria was published last month; it became one of the most viewed Fashion.at-articles in July. On this page, I will provide some views on knots in fashion.

Video (below): For the training of the clove hitch, an ironing board for collars was used.

An exam for a shipping license opened my eyes for knots in fashion, lifestyle and culture. At first, the knots were the most unpleasant part of the exam. Making knots isn't as easy as it looks like. But with a routine which has to be gone through several times, making knots became a relaxing fingerplay that I exercise since then when talking on the phone or watching an online press conference or webinar. One of my favorites is the fender knot (German 'Fenderknoten') which is the vertical version of the clove hitch. The fender knot is used to tie a protective part, the fender, at the outside of the boat before reaching the landing stage.

To make knots reminds me of knitting. Actually, the word 'knitting' has its origin in the word 'knot'. The word knitting was derived from tying a net from knots (details at https://www.oxfordlearnersdictionaries.com/definition/english/knit_1). Knots themselves are used for communication. The culture of the Incas used knots as a sort of writing system (article https://blog.google/outreach-initiatives/arts-culture/explore-undeciphered-writing-incas/). Knots which carry meanings are also known in fashion such as in the Austrian traditional clothing. The traditional dress 'Dirndl' has an apron which is tied with a bow. The position of the bow - left, right, middle, or in the back - has different meanings and signals the status of the wearer. The bow right from the position of the wearer means the person is married or in a relationship, left means without a partner, the bow in the back is worn by widows, children, and the bow in the middle has no special meaning or means that the wearer simply doesn't want to signal anything.

The most common knot used internationally in menswear are ties which originate from the Croatians' knotted scarves of the 17th century (article).

But back to boating, sailing; the exploration of knots such as in lace-making, in weaving in general or through costume history would lead too far for an article. The reference to nautical knots which impressed me the most at the latest presentations of summer 2022 collections were the rope-belts (Instagram) shown by Hermès for menswear. (Vogue mentioned the belt especially in an article https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/hermes.) In the eyes of 'nautical knotters', the belt might show similarities with a sheet bend (German: Schotstek).

Another nautical knotter's work was shown recently by the Neue Galerie in New York. The museum shop sets items in relation to the season or special topics such as the curated collection with the name 'Neue Frau: Summer in the City'. One of the displayed items is a sailor's knots bracelet by Austrian-born Sophie Aschauer (SerpentSea) presented by Neue Galerie New York with reference to Austrian costume history.

This here is a short editorial article with focus on my latest impressions of nautical practises applied to fashion items and not the introduction into a scientific work for finding either a possible 'red rope' for a chronological historical work or for the veri- or falsification of a hypothesis which leads a research for example with the assumption that with meaning loaded knots used in fashion or costumes in various cultures share at least one universal message of freedom and connectedness. And even in the case that the hypothesis may have to be falsified, the research on freedom and connectedness - and its definition - isn't the worst reason to study costume history and contemporary fashion.