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18 September 2025

Stories in Sparkle: A New History of Costume Jewelry

Cover of 'Costume Jewelry', Taschen, 2025, hardcover volume with photographs of nearly 600 historical pieces.

The authors and their approach

On October 3, 2025, Taschen will release Costume Jewelry, a 528-page volume that invites readers to wander through more than a century of jewelry history. Written by jewelry historian Carol Woolton, contributing editor at British Vogue and author of several books on the subject, together with fashion critic and curator Maria Luisa Frisa of the University of Venice, the book combines scholarly insight with a light, storytelling style. Rather than presenting academic essays, the authors turn historical and cultural knowledge into narrative short forms that entertain while informing, drawing on costume history, media, and even film.

Almost 600 jewelry pieces from the collection of Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo are presented in rich photography by Luciano Romano, offering readers a visually compelling journey alongside the text. The book is multilingual, with English, German, and French texts designed to be long enough to convey knowledge yet concise enough to remain accessible.

Defining "costume jewelry"

The opening chapter raises a central question: where does the very term "costume jewelry" come from? The origins remain unclear. Early sources point to a 1907 American fashion magazine advertisement that first used the phrase, referring to theatrical costume rather than imitation gems. Another theory links the expression to Coco Chanel, who saw jewelry as part of a complete costume, not merely an accessory. This uncertainty, instead of closing a definition, opens the narrative to multiple interpretations—a suitable beginning for a book that embraces eclecticism.

Austrians in the story with focus on America

While the main focus is on U.S. designers and producers, Austrian roots repeatedly appear throughout the book.

• Daniel Swarovski, who in 1892 invented a machine to cut glass stones with unmatched brilliance, later collaborated with Christian Dior to create the iridescent Aurora Borealis effect.
• Joseff of Hollywood, son of Austrian parents, became indispensable to film productions, supplying jewelry for Gone with the Wind and The Wizard of Oz.
• Eisenberg, an Austrian immigrant family name, built a reputation for bold rhinestone pieces in the 1930s and 1940s.
• Hattie Carnegie, born Hattie Kanengeiser in Austria, turned into a defining figure of American fashion, her jewelry designs known for colorful imagination and elite clientele.

These stories remind readers that costume jewelry's golden age in the United States was also shaped by émigré talent.

A sparkling playlist of chapters

The book's 26 chapters are structured like a playbook, each title paired with a musical subtitle. The result is a reading rhythm that feels curated like a playlist. A chapter titled All That Sparkles has as its subtitle—and music suggestion—"Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" by Marilyn Monroe, while Christmas Trees features Bing Crosby's rendition of the Austrian Christmas carol "Silent Night." This blending of visual, textual, and musical associations turns costume jewelry history into an immersive, multisensory experience.

Publication details

Costume Jewelry will be published by Taschen on October 3, 2025. The hardcover edition (528 pages, 26.9 × 33.6 cm, 4.49 kg) is multilingual (English, French, German) and available for pre-order at taschen.com.


Image: Cover of the book 'Costume Jewelry' (Taschen, 2025), a 528-page multilingual edition richly illustrated with nearly 600 pieces from the collection of Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo.