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6 May 2024
Fashion.at met Florentina Leitner at her MAK (Con)Temporary Showcase exhibition to talk about her work and how fashion can be used to raise awareness for environmental and social issues.
One of the most interesting fashion-related exhibitions in Vienna at the moment is that of Florentina Leitner at the Geymüllerschlössel, a branch of the MAK Museum of Applied Arts. Fashion.at announced the exhibition back in April with a preview of the designer's work (article). Last Saturday, Fashion.at visited the opening of the retrospective, which highlights the work of the Austrian talent, who lives in Antwerp, Belgium. Director Lilli Hollein welcomed the guests in the romantic garden of the Biedermeier summer palace. People were relaxing in the green and on benches and chairs, children were playing, at a table women who participated in the workshop with the artist Alma Bektas created flower artworks. Fashion.at went with designer Florentina Leitner to James Turrell's skyspace 'The Other Horizon' to talk about her work and how fashion can be used to raise awareness for environmental and social issues. The first question was why the designer chooses themes from film and literature, such as Jeanne d'Arc or the film about Marie Antoinette in the L'Autrichienne collection, rather than those that deal directly with current socio-political issues such as diversity, inclusion or resource conservation in relation to conscious fashion consumption.
Note: The interview was conducted in German and translated into English.
Social and political issues are addressed on a subconscious level through her collections
Florentina Leitner's answer is expected by those who know her work. The social and political issues are addressed on a subconscious level through her collections, which are inspired by films and historical figures. As an example, Leitner mentioned her Joan of Arc-inspired collection 'Jeanne,' which she says explores themes of gender neutrality and diversity. In explaining her choices, she noted her preference for individuals who were influential in their respective eras, emphasizing the non-binary theme in the collection. She mentioned efforts to include a diverse cast and conveyed her intention to present a positive narrative through her collection, citing the historical context of women being persecuted and the prevalence of warfare. The Jeanne collection is a portrayal of resilience and the ability to overcome adversity, advocating fashion as a means of escapism and imagination.
"It is a story about a strong woman who goes through fire. The collection is about a woman who survived the fire, and that not everything ends through fire and war and violence, but that one can rise again and new things can blossom - despite the darkness that a life can go through".
Issue in the future? Definitely hope.
When asked if she could imagine addressing social issues directly in her collections and what she thinks are the most interesting issues that can be brought to people's attention through fashion in the future, Florentina Leitner replied, "Definitely hope." The designer believes in the power of hope and positivity in creative mediums and aims to convey a positive message through her work. She acknowledged the harsh realities facing the world, including environmental degradation, and emphasized the importance of art and culture in promoting awareness and change. She advocated conscious consumption and the support of smaller artisanal labels to promote craftsmanship and creativity.
"I believe that craftsmanship and creativity are something that cannot be taken away from us in the future, even with all the technologies, and should continue to be promoted and pushed."
How to reduce waste? Buy consciously.
Fashion.at wanted to know if she had any tips for young people on how to be responsible with fashion and reduce the growing waste in the industry.
"Buy consciously," was her spontaneous answer, and she went on to recommend supporting emerging brands whose values align with your own. She emphasized the importance of a personal connection to brands and their universes, encouraging consumers to make informed choices based on an appreciation of craftsmanship and shared values.
Vienna vs. Antwerp? It's the mix.
When asked how her experiences in Vienna and Antwerp have influenced her design aesthetic and approach, and if there are any notable differences between the fashion scenes in the two cities, she noted that the differences between the colorful and daring fashion scene in Antwerp and the more traditional and historical influence in Vienna are combined in her designs.
"Many women in Antwerp wear full-on Dries van Noten, prints and bright colors. What I find so exciting about Vienna or Austria is the tradition. I'm wearing a dirndl blouse myself right now. I just think it's great to look at our traditional clothing or these ball gowns that we wear at the Opera Ball. It's just something very special; it doesn't exist everywhere."
She chose to live and work in Antwerp because of the supportive environment and like-minded people she found there. Florentina Leitner emphasizes the importance of personal connections and a shared vision in feeling at home in a city. But she is always open to opportunities elsewhere.
Visitors of the exhibition are invited to dream
Fashion.at: "The exhibition at the Geymüllerschlössel, which opened today, shows a retrospective of your work, with some of the collections on display receiving awards from the Austrian Federal Ministry for Art and Culture. What do visitors take away from the exhibition?"
"It's funny that it's a retrospective, because I haven't been in the business that long. It's basically a small part of my career so far. Visitors are definitely invited to dream." The designer described the exhibition as an opportunity for visitors to immerse themselves in her creative world, consisting of the outfits on display, which tell stories, and films that complement her designs.
"There are always one to two or three outfits per collection that I have made over the last few years - from my master collection to my most recent collection."
The collaborations for the exhibition
In the exhibition three other artists are presented with their works. Fashion.at wanted to know more about the designer's collaborations. Florentina Leitner explained that working with artists in different media adds depth and richness to her creations, citing the examples of a makeup artist and a sculptor who contributed to her exhibition at the Geymüllerschlössel.
"Unfortunately, living in Antwerp, I only got to know Alma Bektas very briefly, and then we worked separately. But make-up artist Nil Stranzinger, with whom I often work, and Sophia Stolz, who does cake art, also took part in the exhibition. It's always great to have people around you who specialize."
Why fashion and not art installations? The focus is on style with storytelling.
Fashion.at: "The fashion pieces you create sometimes seem like wearable textile installations or wearable art sculptures. Why is fashion important to you? Why don't you do textile installations right away? What drives your passion for fashion and how do you hope your designs will affect people?"
She emphasized the importance of her fashion being worn and appreciated by people, particularly in markets like Asia where her designs are well received. She expressed her passion for creating wearable art that combines style with storytelling.
"I think it's very important that my fashion is worn by people. Ultimately, it's about making sure that the products I design are worn. Even if it's not immediately wearable, it's always a styling thing and a person thing. Our stuff is particularly well received in Asia, and that's really the market I'm targeting more. There are three stores in Tokyo that sell my pieces, then two stores in Taiwan and one in Korea. This is really the market I have a strong affinity for. By the way, I'm flying to Japan soon."
Spring/Summer 2025 presentation in Paris
"Are there any projects you are just starting?"
"Right now I'm fully concentrating on this project and then I'm looking forward to going back to Antwerp and focusing more on my new collection for Spring/Summer 2025. I can't reveal the name yet, but it will be presented at Paris Fashion Week in September."
The future of fashion
"Where do you see the future of fashion and what would you like to contribute?"
"Definitely stricter laws, like now in France with fast fashion. I think it will become more and more important to buy from individual, smaller companies. Maybe pay a little more, but buy a little less. From my perspective as a brand operator, less production, fewer editions, but more craftsmanship.
There are people today who say it's better to buy vintage, but of course it's great to produce something new that doesn't lose value and can be resold. If it is good quality, it will last longer. Just appreciate the clothes more and take them to the shoemaker or seamstress if something happens."
Fashion.at noted that some of her fashion pieces look like collectibles.
"I think that clothes should be worn, not that you should only have special items in your wardrobe. For example, the theme of this year's Met Gala, "Sleeping Beauties," is related to archives. The Sleeping Beauties are the sleeping gowns that can only be found in archives."
Florentina Leitner's fashion already has the best qualities to become part of the exclusive 'sleeping beauties' circle in important museum collections. Her designs are part of the collections of the Fashion and Lace Museum, Brussels, the MoMu - Antwerp Fashion Museum, and most likely one or the other piece will be collected by the MAK Museum of Applied Arts Vienna on the occasion of the (Con)Temporary Showcase.
Image below: View of the MAK (Con)Temporary Showcase exhibition 'Florentina Leitner' at the Geymüllerschlössel in Vienna.
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