2 November 2019

130 years from Arts & Crafts to Applied Arts seen at jewelry by A. E. Köchert

On 27 November, historical items by jeweler A.E. Köchert will be auctioned at Dorotheum in Vienna. A.E. Köchert is known for manufacturing jewelry in the 19th century as 'K. u. K. Hof & Kammerjuwelier' for the family members of the imperial house of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. Now, a tiara and brooch from around the early 1890ies will be available for estimated 100,000 to 200,000 Euros (tiara) and 60,000 to 100,000 Euros (brooch) once made for Archduchess Marie Valerie of Austria. In many cases, the designers of 19th century jewelry aren't known or explicitly mentioned. In the case of the diadem, the name of the designer of the exclusive jewelry is handed out. The design was created by Wilhelm Haarstrick who worked until 1891 for Köchert in Vienna.

Until today, A.E. Köchert presents special designed items respectively collections such as this year the collaborative jewelry series with artist Eva Petrič (article) who referenced with her 'Chromosomes in Love' designs biological as well as metaphysical levels of connections between human beings. Around 130 years have passed between the designs by Wilhelm Haarstrick (tiara) and Eva Petrič' collection; 130 years that show how high jewelry reflects movements like 'Arts & Crafts' (focus on decoration) and contemporary 'Applied Arts' practices (decoration extended by additional content, meaning or message).

fig.: Diamond and natural pearl tiara by A.E. Köchert, auctioned on 27 November 2019 at dorotheum.com. Provenance: Archduchess Marie Valerie of Austria and descendants, 15 natural pearls, partly baroque form, old cut diamond and diamonds, diamond diamonds, together about 25 ct, work about 1890/95, design Wilhelm Haarstrick, estimated 100,000 to 200,000 Euros. Photo: © Dorotheum.


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