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MEN STYLE
spring/summer 2010
fall/winter 2010/11

The Air Mailman

Long time not seen in times of emails: envelopes for air mails. Are these love letter pants promising a high flight?

Two pieces on this page are really long in fashion; they haven't changed in their basic design. Can you imagine which the old fashioned ones are?



fig.: original clockwise, beginning with the man in...

Black/grey suit in asymmetric 'Jekyll & Hyde' cut by Neil Barrett and Palladium boots designed by Neil Barrett, FW 2010/11. The Palladium boots are upgraded by the British, now in Milan living designer Neil Barrett. The special edition of the military 'Baggy'-boot in three leather variations premiered under the title ‚Palladium by Neil Barrett’ on the runway at the Milan Fashion Week in January 2010.

When Palladium was founded in 1920, the French label produced tires for the aviation industry. Since 1947, the Palladium boot's basic design hasn't changed. It was originally created for the French Government to supply the legendary French Foreign Legion that was mostly stationed in North Africa (Algeria, Morocco, Atlas Mountains). After its military usage, it was discovered for workwear, and became later a fashion statement for adventure and the exploration of unknown or forgotten places.

On this idea, the video series 'Explorations' was developed together with the New York headquartered online broadcast network VBS. The videos are made in the style of travel movies about 'places both weird bizarre as well as unknown with a nod towards exploration,' explains VBS. They are about burning underground coal fires in West Virginia, abandoned subway tunnels in NYC, missile silos long forgotten, or about the Teufelsberg (Devil's Mountain) in Berlin where a man is interviewed about his work at the former listening station of the US National Security Agency (NSA) and the connection between the station and the airport Tempelhof. View the videos on palladiumboots.com/explorations.

In January 2010, Fashionoffice has looked through Neil Barrett's collection, searched what others say - such as the men's specialists of the magazine GQ, who created the term 'Schizo-Style', and has asked Italian photographer Paolo Simi about his work behind the scene at Neil Barrett: Fashionistas about Neil Barrett's new collection.

Sunglasses by Diesel, SS2010.

N-3B Extreme Cold Weather Jacket in black overdyed flight nylon by Alpha Industries, FW2010/11. The front pockets of the extreme cold weather jacket can be used without taking off the gloves. The American label Alpha Industries was founded in Tennessee by Alan Cirker in 1959. Since the beginning it produces flight apparel. Alpha Industries delivers the jackets for the US Air Force. In the 80ies, the jackets became fashionable in Hollywood. On Alpha Industries' European website, a 'Who is wearing'-slideshow with John Travolta, David Beckham, Clint Eastwood, Leonardo Dicaprio, etc. is published. Although the design of the main pieces such as for the jacket on this page doesn't change through the years significantly, the label produces seasonal collections. Especially new materials and colors are added, such as Neil Barrett has upgraded the Palladium boots with leather in various surface qualities and colors. For the first time, Alpha Industries presents for fall/winter 2010/11 an extended fashion collection of 150 pieces.

Air mail 'Today I'm your mailman' pants by Diesel, SS2010.

Black Sport Couture Messenger by Dirk Bikkembergs, SS2010.

D&G "Genteel Chrono", spring 2010. Photo: (C) D&G.

Ring with a cross from the 'I'mnocent' 2010 collection by the Italian (Pisa) based designer Manuel Bozzi who explains: "I am guilty for having 'stolen' treasures and guarding them with care, for having stolen, trapped and to tie them to me. But I am innocent...and most of all free."


Source: Original article with images and video on https://www.fashion.at/collections/2010/menstyle2-2010.htm.


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